Friday, February 26, 2010

The Avocado Experience in Michoacan

I had my first taste of avocado honey last month. And it was incredible. If I had been successful at smuggling it across the border from Mexico, you would be hearing about it nonstop. Oh, the things I could have done with that honey. Too bad I get extremely nervous about lying-- and if there's one thing a customs officer can do, it's sniff out an avocado honey smuggler. So there you have it, I'm a failed criminal who has to live without the jar of organic avocado honey that was gifted to me by a lovely Mexican farmer in Michoacan-- the largest Hass-avocado-producing region of the world.

One farm boasted a particularly large tree that had on many occasions yielded up to a metric ton of avocados in a single day. A processing plant we visited processes 100 tons of avocados on an average day. We tasted an avocado that had been ripening on the tree for 18-months. 18 months! Not only did it not spoil on the tree, it actually became more buttery the longer it stayed on the vine. We picked it, sliced it open and ate the flesh right out of the shell. Really one of my favorite ways to eat an avocado.

As part of the tour, we also got to dine at some amazing restaurants in the area. Uruapan is first and foremost known for its avocados, but they are also known for their macadamia nuts. I had a macadamia popsicle (paleta) that was creamy and nutty and succulent. At a local restaurant that was perched over a national park overlooking a waterfall (I know, right?), we dined on everything from avocado shakes to avocado soup with toasted croutons to macadamia-crusted whole trout with avocado salad. I grew up in California, so have eaten avocados for as long as I can remember, but this was taking avocados to the next level. Avocado orchards all around, avocados sold on the street, avocados in the restaurants. This was serious Avocado Land, I tell ya.

Part of the experience of visiting the region was getting a small taste of the local culture. On our drive back from Uruapan to Morelia, where we were staying, we stopped in Patzcuaro-- a small lakeside town of a very old age. We walked around the downtown square, where street vendors sold everything from ice cream to corn on the cob to jewelry. By that point, I was too stuffed to eat anything... except nieve, which is similar to sherbert, only with tons of better flavors, like tamarind and coconut. I made the mistake of describing cajeta as caramel, which upset one of my fellow travelers. So I guess it's not caramel, but it looks and tastes a lot like caramel. And it is DEEELICIOUS. We ate it in the form of frozen dessert and later stuffed inside a fresh churro at Meson Agustinos in Morelia, where I also got a chance to try cactus soup for the first time. Really nice-- the tartness of the cactus balanced by the cream in the soup with some simple seasonings made for a tasty, filling soup. Regional cuisine in Mexico varies (just like in China, India and other large nations), so I was pleasantly surprised I got to try dishes that were brand-new to me-- like avocado-filled fried rice balls, marinated cactus slices and dried beef with onions, beans and cheese stewed inside a stone molcajete. Very drool-worthy.

One last nod to Hotel del la Soledad-- hands down the most romantic, magical hotel I've ever stayed at. Gorgeously maintained architectural details, comfortable rooms and a terrific hotel restaurant. The first night we got there, we had cocktails in the courtyard. I had the platanos margarita, which was banana heaven. And I think I ate an entire bowl of guacamole by myself. What's better than guacamole? Guacamole made with Mexican avocados in the avocado-producing region of Mexico! So incredibly creamy and fresh. We also gorged on lard tamales, sweet tamales and delicate wild-mushroom-stuffed crepes topped with seasoned cream and crumbled cotija, arguably one of my favorite cheeses used for topping. I don't think I was hungry for a second on this entire trip. Next time I come, I am staying for a week. And I'm only going to pack muu-muus and pants with elastic waist bands, because I plan to do a whole lot more eatin'.

Love,
Cupcake
[http://travelingcupcake.blogspot.com]

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